Neck Overview
A rosewood guitar neck built for Telecaster-style bodies: a hand-selected Canadian maple shaft, a dark rosewood board and a satin finish over the whole thing. The neck of a guitar is the part your hand lives on, so the wood and the electric guitar neck dimensions matter more here than anywhere else on the instrument.
Slot it into a Tele-style pocket and the modern side of the design takes over: a board flatter than the vintage pattern, a fret run that climbs further up the neck, and a profile that sits between a vintage chunk and a modern carve.
It suits a repair bench replacing a warped or broken original, a builder assembling a partscaster, and a player who wants a Tele that bends more freely than the one in the case. What arrives is the neck of a guitar and nothing more — frets, bone nut, inlays and truss rod in place, but tuners, string tree and body not included. Plan on the setup any new neck needs before it plays the way it should.
Neck Woods & Tone
- Rosewood fretboard. Dense, dark and smooth under the fingers. Rosewood needs no finish, so it feels played-in from the first touch, and it absorbs some of the excess high frequency in the upper registers instead of letting the top end turn brittle.
- Canadian maple shaft. Hand-selected A-grade maple, chosen for straight grain and stability before it is cut. Maple keeps the attack quick and the note clean — the reason a Telecaster still sounds like a Telecaster.
- The balance between them. Maple brings clarity and cut, rosewood adds warmth and rounds the treble. Together they give a rosewood guitar neck a full, rounded voice that still sits in a mix.
- Rosewood skunk stripe, dot inlays. The back carries a rosewood skunk stripe and the board is marked with white dots, so the parts of a guitar neck you look at most are finished rather than left plain.
- Built to stay put. A maple guitar neck holds its shape well across seasons, and the wood is checked before machining rather than after.
- Why not all maple? An all-maple board is bright and snappy; this one trades a little of that bite for warmth. If an all-maple Tele has always felt glassy to you, this is the version to try.
Fretwork & Fret Ends
Every electric guitar neck we ship has its frets dressed by hand, in three stages that decide how the finished instrument feels under your fingers.
Levelling. The frets are pressed in at the positions set by the electric guitar neck length, then levelled against one another so no single fret sits proud. A high fret is what makes a note buzz or choke out when you bend; levelling takes that out before the neck leaves the bench.
Crowning. Each fret is reshaped and polished back to a clean crown, so the string meets a narrow, precise contact point instead of a flattened top. That is what makes notes ring evenly from the low E to the dusty end.
Fret end bevelling. The ends are rounded and filed back in line with the edge of the board, so nothing sticks out to catch your hand as you move up. With the board edges smoothed as well, the parts of a guitar neck your palm brushes are the ones finished most carefully.
One honest note. Wood moves when it travels between climates, and a setup done before shipping is always a compromise. Minor fret dressing or levelling may be needed after shipping, and a very low action can need a little more attention than a medium one. Both are routine for any new neck and take a technician minutes, not hours.
Fitting & Installation
- Check the pocket against the heel. The heel is 56 mm wide and 26 mm deep, cut to Telecaster-compatible dimensions. On a Tele-style body it drops in without routing or filling; on anything else, measure the pocket before you order.
- Dry-fit before you drill. Set the neck in place, run a string over the saddle line and check the electric guitar neck dimensions against your body — scale, pocket depth and bridge position — before you drill. Scale is fixed at 25.5" (648 mm), so if the bridge sits wrong the instrument will never intonate.
- Moving from an older, smaller pattern? Use conversion bushings rather than opening the holes out.
- Fit the tuners and string up. The guitar neck width at the nut is 43 mm and the bone nut is already fitted; string slot depth and action are set with the rest of the setup, as they are on any new neck.
- Adjust the truss rod slowly. Work in small turns, let the neck settle, then check relief again before you touch the saddles.
- Set the action and intonation. Bring the action down gradually and listen for buzz before you go lower, then set intonation at the 12th fret.
- Check it again after a week. A neck settles into a new climate over the first days of playing. One more small truss rod tweak and a look at the fret ends is usually all it takes.
Neck Profile & Radius
- Modern C profile. 0.82" (21 mm) behind the 1st fret and 0.87" (22 mm) behind the 12th — a maple guitar neck that fills the hand without turning into a baseball bat, quick enough for lead work and solid enough to dig into.
- 12" radius. Flatter than the vintage 9.5" board. Bends stay clean, wide vibrato holds pitch, and you can run a lower action without strings choking out on the upper frets — while chords still sit comfortably under the fingers.
- 22 medium-jumbo frets. Two more than the vintage pattern, which brings the top of the board within easier reach. Medium-jumbo wire gives a positive feel under the fingers and wears well under regular playing.
- Rust-proof nickel silver wire. Resists tarnish, keeps the fret surface smooth and keeps contact with the string consistent long after the first string change.
- Satin back, smoothed edges. The satin finish lets your hand travel without the drag of gloss, and the board edges are smoothed so nothing scratches your palm on the way up.
- The two numbers that matter most. More than any other electric guitar neck dimensions, radius and profile decide whether a neck feels right — compare them first against the neck you play now.
Full Specifications
| Specification | Detail |
|---|
| Frets | 22, medium-jumbo |
| Fret wire | Rust-proof nickel silver |
| Neck wood | Canadian maple |
| Fretboard | Rosewood |
| Fingerboard radius | 12" / 305 mm |
| Scale length | 25.5" / 648 mm |
| Nut width | 1.69" / 43 mm |
| Heel width | 2.2" / 56 mm |
| Heel depth | 1.0" / 26 mm |
| Peg hole diameter | 10 mm |
| Neck thickness at 1st fret | 0.82" / 21 mm |
| Neck thickness at 12th fret | 0.87" / 22 mm |
| Finish | Satin |
| Truss rod | Dual action |
Ordering & Delivery
- One neck is a complete order. Buy a single electric guitar neck for a repair or a personal build — there is no case quantity to reach.
- Check the numbers before you buy. Heel, guitar neck width, electric guitar neck length and peg hole size all appear in the specification list above — read them once against your own instrument before you order.
- Inspect on arrival. Check the carton before you sign for it and photograph any transit damage before you fit the neck; it is much easier to sort out before the part is on an instrument.
- Ask about lead time. Delivery timing varies with destination and stock, so confirm the current lead time with us when you place the order.
- Ordering for a shop or a run of builds? Ask about larger quantities at the same time.
Technical Support & Model Matching
Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.
FAQ
What are the neck specifications?
It is a 22-fret Telecaster-compatible neck with a 12" (305 mm) radius rosewood board on a Canadian maple shaft, a 25.5" (648 mm) scale, a guitar neck width of 1.69" (43 mm) at the nut, a 56 mm × 26 mm heel, 10 mm peg holes and a dual-action truss rod, all under a satin finish.
Will it fit my guitar without modification?
On a Telecaster-style body with a standard pocket, yes — the heel matches the pocket and no routing or filling is needed. Fit it dry first and check the bridge against the electric guitar neck length before you drill, because the scale is fixed at 25.5". Other body styles should be measured before ordering.
What materials is it made from?
The neck is built around two woods and a small number of fitted parts. The shaft is hand-selected A-grade Canadian maple, chosen for straight grain and checked for stability before machining, so it holds its shape through seasonal swings instead of fighting the truss rod. The fretboard is rosewood, left bare rather than lacquered: dense, dark and smooth from the first touch, and easy to look after with a light application of fretboard oil whenever it starts to look dry. A rosewood skunk stripe runs down the back of the maple guitar neck and white dots mark the board, so the surfaces you look at most are finished rather than left plain.
Up front sits a fitted bone nut, seated and slotted before the neck is packed. Bone is denser than the plastic nuts common on cheaper replacements and it can be filed during setup to suit your string gauge and action, so expect your tech to touch it in as part of the final fit. The frets are rust-proof nickel silver — the traditional alloy rather than stainless steel — pressed, levelled, crowned and bevelled by hand. Nickel silver feels smooth under bending and is straightforward to dress later if a fret ever needs attention, which is why it remains the working choice on a rosewood guitar neck like this one.
The finish is satin across the whole neck. It is thin enough that the maple grain reads through, and slick enough on the back that your hand does not drag in a warm room the way it can on a gloss coat. Treat it as a working finish rather than a showpiece lacquer: wipe it down after playing, keep the instrument out of a hot car, and let the neck acclimatise to your workshop before you fit it so the wood settles at your humidity, not the one it travelled in.
If you need something different from what is described here — stainless wire, a different nut blank, a gloss finish — ask before ordering, because the neck ships with the materials listed above.
Is it suitable for stage or studio use?
Yes. The electric guitar neck holds its relief between a cold load-in and a warm stage once the truss rod is set, the satin back keeps your hand moving through long sets, and the dressed frets mean nothing rattles or chokes when you dig in. Under a close mic the rosewood board gives a warmer top end than an all-maple neck.
Can it be used in custom builds?
It is a sensible starting point for a partscaster: the neck of a guitar sets the scale, the feel and much of the tone, and this one arrives already fretted, dressed, fitted with its nut and with the truss rod installed. A builder can move straight on to hardware and setup.
Will my tuners fit the 10 mm peg holes?
Modern tuners with 10 mm bushings drop straight in. Peg hole size is one of the parts of a guitar neck that varies most between makers, so if you are moving from an older, smaller pattern, use conversion bushings rather than opening the holes out.
How does the rosewood board change the tone compared with an all-maple neck?
Rosewood takes the hard edge off the top end and adds warmth, while the maple shaft keeps the attack quick, so a rosewood guitar neck ends up rounded but still articulate. It is the version to choose if an all-maple Tele has always sounded a little glassy to you.
What truss rod is fitted?
A dual-action rod, which corrects both a concave bow (too much relief) and a convex one (back-bow). That range is what lets you follow a change of string gauge or a shift in humidity with small adjustments instead of a bench visit.
Does the rosewood board need any care?
The neck of a guitar takes more hand contact than anything else on the instrument, and an unfinished rosewood board dries out slowly over the years. A thin coat of fretboard oil once or twice a year, worked in and buffed off, keeps it from looking pale and tired. Keep it sparing — excess oil left sitting on the board does more harm than good.
