Telecaster Compatible Guitar Neck Roasted Maple Neck 12" Radius 10 mm Holes 22 Frets Satin Finish

Product Overview

Repair benches fit it to get a customer's instrument playing again, small builders start partscasters on it, and players swap it in to change how a familiar guitar feels in their hands. The electric guitar neck arrives with its frets already levelled, crowned and bevelled, so what is left is setup — relief, saddle height, intonation — rather than fret repair. Check the heel, nut and peg hole sizes against your body and tuners before you order; every figure is listed below.

Fretwork & Fret Finish

1. Leveling. Frets are pressed into the board at the positions set by the electric guitar neck length, then checked against each other so they all sit on one plane. Level frets are what let you run low action without buzz.
2. Crowning. The top of each fret is hand-polished and bevelled into its final rounded shape, so the string meets a clean crown instead of a flattened top.
3. Fret end bevelling. The fret ends are the parts of a guitar neck that catch the side of your hand, so each one is rounded and drawn flush with the edge of the board rather than left standing proud.
4. Final inspection. Each neck is checked for high frets, loose ends and rough spots before it is packed. Fretwork is where a neck earns its reputation, and it is the first thing a technician notices.

Canadian Roasted Maple

Roasting — carbonisation, if you prefer the technical name — heats the maple to a high temperature and drives the deep moisture out of the wood. What is left is a maple guitar neck that reacts less to weather: it holds its shape through humidity swings and settles faster after a trip between a cold van, a warm shop and a stage. That is the practical reason roasted maple suits players who gig across climate zones, and anyone living somewhere damp or somewhere with fierce indoor heating. Every neck starts as hand-selected A-grade Canadian maple. The board is the same roasted maple as the neck, so front and back read as one piece, with a rosewood skunk stripe set into the back for the traditional Tele look. Tonally it sits on the modern side: a prominent attack, a clear and granular response under the fingers, and a full, tough low end when you push the amp. Colour is natural wood, so expect the shade and grain to differ slightly from neck to neck.

Dual-Action Truss Rod

• Corrects both ways. A dual-action rod pulls the neck back as well as letting it forward, so it can fix a forward bow and a back bow. A single-action rod only works in one direction.
• Quarter turns. Adjust in small steps, retune, then re-check relief before going further. Most necks need less movement than people expect.
• Relief first, action second. Set relief with the rod, then set string height at the saddles and nut. Using the rod to lower action is how a neck ends up buzzing in the middle.
• It follows the seasons. Guitars move with humidity and with string gauge changes. If the rod stops responding, stop — that is a job for a technician, not for more force.
• The profile stays put. Turning the rod straightens or relaxes the neck; it does not change the guitar neck shapes you feel under your fingers.
• Familiar tension. The electric guitar neck length is the standard Tele scale, so the rod is working against string tension any Tele player already knows.
• Standard Tele scale. At 25.5 in / 648 mm the speaking length matches a Telecaster, so ordinary electric sets — 9-42, 10-46, 11-49 — drop in without recalculating anything. Intonation lands where your tuner expects it. - 9-42 on this board. The lightest of the usual sets feels springy and bends easily, and it puts the least tension on the rod. A sensible match if you play lead with a lot of vibrato and want the action low on a thin neck electric guitar. - 10-46. The middle ground and the safest first choice: enough mass for chords to ring, enough resistance that bends on a 12-inch board hold their pitch instead of going soft. - 11-49 and heavier. The tension stays within what a dual-action rod can correct, but tune up, leave the neck a day or two, then re-check relief and saddle intonation before you judge the setup. Heavier strings also sit deeper in the nut slots — have a technician check slot height before anyone takes a file to the nut. - Hybrid sets. Light plain strings over heavier wound strings suit this flatter radius well: the top three bend without effort while the lower strings keep definition for rhythm work. - Detuning. Drop the guitar a whole step and tension falls, so the neck relaxes and the saddles may need attention. Treat it as a fresh setup rather than assuming the old one still holds. - Gauge changes and fret wear. Every gauge change is the moment to look at the first few frets and the nut slots, because those two decide how the guitar neck feels long before the rod has any say.

Neck Geometry & Playability

• 12-inch radius. Flatter than the 9.5-inch boards used on vintage-spec necks, so the strings sit closer under your fingers for wide bends and notes hold their pitch when you dig in. Barre chords still feel normal — this is not a shred-only board.
• Modern C profile. Among the guitar neck shapes shops ask for most, and one your hand probably already knows: slim in the palm without feeling like a toothpick. Depth is 0.82 in / 21 mm at the first fret and 0.87 in / 22 mm at the twelfth.
• Slim enough for lead work. If you reach for a thin neck electric guitar when you want speed, this carve and the satin back let your thumb travel instead of sticking.
• 22 medium-jumbo frets. Medium-jumbo wire gives a positive grip for bends and vibrato, with enough crown left in it to dress the frets again later in the neck's life.
• Nut width 43 mm / 1.69 in. The guitar neck width at the nut keeps familiar Fender-style string spacing, so your chord shapes transfer without relearning.
• 10 mm peg holes. Drilled at 10 mm to take modern tuner bushings; if your tuners use 8 mm posts, take the 8 mm version of this neck instead.
• Check the numbers first. Heel, nut, peg holes, thickness and scale are all set out in inches and millimetres in the specification table, so you can compare the electric guitar neck dimensions with your body and hardware before you commit.
• Feature | This neck | 9.5" roasted maple Tele neck --- | --- | --- Fingerboard radius | 12" / 305 mm | 9.5" / 240 mm Frets | 22 medium-jumbo | 21 medium-jumbo Peg hole diameter | 10 mm | 8 mm Neck and board | Roasted Canadian maple, rosewood skunk stripe | Roasted Canadian maple, rosewood skunk stripe Scale length | 25.5" / 648 mm | 25.5" / 648 mm Nut width | 1.69" / 43 mm | 1.69" / 43 mm Heel | 2.2" x 1.0" / 56 x 26 mm | 2.2" x 1.0" / 56 x 26 mm Truss rod | Dual action | Dual action Finish | Satin, natural colour | Satin, natural colour Under the fingers | Flatter board; wide bends hold their pitch and the upper register is easier to reach | Rounder board; the vintage Fender feel most players already know Tuners it takes | Modern bushings with 10 mm posts | Vintage-style tuners with 8 mm posts Ideal for | Lead work, modern builds and partscasters, players who spend time above the 12th fret | Restorations, period-correct builds and players who prefer a curved board under barre chords Same geometry, warmer voice | The rosewood-fretboard Tele neck in this range carries the same 12" radius, 22 frets and 10 mm holes if you want maple clarity softened at the top | The all-roasted-maple 9.5" neck stays the brightest and most traditional of the four Swap check before ordering | Measure your pocket and your tuner post diameter against these figures | Do the same, and note the smaller 8 mm holes

Fitting & First Setup

1. Dry-fit the pocket. Compare the heel — 2.2 in / 56 mm wide and 1.0 in / 26 mm deep — plus the guitar neck width along its length with your body's pocket before you drill or drive a single screw.
2. Set the saddles. With the neck seated, the electric guitar neck length of 25.5 in / 648 mm measures from the nut face to each saddle; start there, then adjust each saddle for intonation.
3. Fit your tuners. The peg holes are 10 mm, so press the bushings in square and check the posts sit true before you string up.
4. String to pitch and let it settle. Bring it to tune, leave it a day, then re-check. New necks and new strings both move a little at first.
5. Relief, then action. Adjust the rod in small increments, then bring the saddles down and finish at the nut slots.
6. Play every fret. Work up the board, listen for buzz, and run a hand along both edges. Sort anything that is off before the instrument goes back to its owner.
7. - Let it settle first. Give the electric guitar neck a day at room temperature before you judge fret level or relief; wood straight out of a cold cargo hold is not yet where it will stay. - A light touch-up may be needed. Minor fret dressing or levelling may be necessary to compensate for environmental shifts during shipping, or to meet a very low action requirement. That is normal for a wooden neck that has travelled, and it is part of a setup rather than a repair. - Low action has a cost. If you want a very low action — the kind of setup a thin neck electric guitar is often asked for — a light level and polish is what separates clean from buzzy. Plan the time for it. - Check the edges when it lands. Run your hand along both sides of the board. If an end feels proud, note it and get in touch before you take a file to anything.

Care & Maintenance

Roasted maple does not ask for much. Wipe the back, the board and the strings with a dry microfibre cloth after playing to clear sweat and skin oils before they cure, and skip solvent polishes, abrasive creams and anything silicone-based — the satin finish stays smooth without wax, and product build-up makes the back feel tacky instead. Keep the guitar out of direct sun and away from radiators, and check relief when the seasons turn. Of the parts of a guitar neck that wear, the frets and the nut slots go first; both are inexpensive to deal with during a string change and expensive once they have been ignored for a few years. If the guitar travels, check tuning and relief at the other end before the first set rather than during it.

Specifications

Ordering & Delivery

• Single necks. There is no batch to clear before you can buy: one neck is enough to start, and plenty of shops order a single piece to try before stocking a few.
• Fit check. Send your pocket measurements and the post diameter of your tuners, and we will hold them against the electric guitar neck dimensions and tell you whether this one will seat properly.
• Before dispatch. Every maple guitar neck is checked over and packed for shipping; tell us if it is going to a workshop rather than a home address.
• Shipping. We ship worldwide. Ask us for the current route and transit time to your address before you order, particularly if a build is already booked in.
• Payment. Standard checkout handles payment; if you need different terms for a shop order, ask us before you buy.
• Unusual builds. Working from a drawing or an odd pocket depth? Message us with the details first — it is a quicker answer than finding out after the electric guitar neck has landed.

Technical Support & Model Matching

Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.

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