Product Overview
A Telecaster-compatible replacement electric guitar neck built on modern playing geometry, in plain Canadian maple from headstock to heel. Back, fretboard and headstock face are all maple, with a rosewood skunk stripe down the rear and a satin finish tinted to a warm vintage amber. It reads as a played-in part rather than a fresh one, which matters when the neck is going onto a guitar that already has some miles on it. Three kinds of buyer tend to end up here. A repair shop needs a customer's Tele playable again without spending a morning re-cutting a board, so it wants frets that are already level and dimensions that are already published. A small builder assembling a partscaster wants a spec that will still be the same on the next order. And a player who has grown used to a flatter board, or to a thin neck electric guitar, wants the same thing on the Tele they actually gig with. Fitting follows the usual routine: unbolt the old neck, check the pocket, bolt this one on, string up, set relief, then action and intonation. The electric guitar neck dimensions that decide whether it drops in — heel, nut, scale, peg holes — are all listed below, so measure your body first rather than hoping. - Hand-selected A-grade Canadian maple. The blank is chosen for straight grain and density before anything is cut, so the finished maple guitar neck resists the slow bow that softer stock develops under string tension. - Fretwork already finished. Leveling, crowning and fret-end bevelling are done before the neck ships, so the board arrives playable instead of costing you a morning at the bench. - Dual-action truss rod. The adjuster corrects a forward bow and a back bow, which is what you want when a neck crosses a climate or you change string gauge. - Satin back, no drag. The back is finished satin rather than gloss, so the hand slides instead of sticking once the stage warms up. - Hardware already in place. The parts of a guitar neck you would normally fit yourself are done: tuner holes drilled, a bone nut seated, dot inlays and side markers set. - Rosewood skunk stripe. The dark stripe down the rear breaks up the maple and nods to the original one-piece construction. - A dense, hard tonewood. Canadian maple is heavy and close-grained. A neck cut from it holds tension well and is less likely to creep than softer stock, so the relief you set in spring still reads in autumn. - Bright and articulate. Maple is known for pushing the top end and keeping notes separate. Played clean, chords stay defined; under gain, the lower strings do not smear into each other. - Good sustain. The wood reflects energy back into the string rather than absorbing it, which is why a maple guitar neck feels lively and rings on after the pick. - Board and back from the same wood. Neck and fretboard are both Canadian maple, so the neck responds as one piece with a consistent feel from the first fret to the heel. - Plain maple, not roasted. This is the traditional version, finished in a warm vintage tint over visible grain. If you play somewhere the climate swings hard and want the extra stability that comes from the wood itself, our roasted maple version of the same spec is the one to look at. - Why shops like it. A neck that does not move much is a neck a shop can fit, set and hand back without expecting the customer to return in three months for another adjustment.
Fretwork & Fret End Finish
- Leveling. Frets are pressed into the board at the increments set by the scale length, then checked against one another until every crown sits on the same plane. A single high fret is the usual reason a neck plays badly, and leveling removes the cause instead of working around it.
- Crowning. Each fret top is hand-polished and bevelled into its final rounded form, so the string meets a clean crown rather than a flat-topped strip. That is what gives a note a defined pitch and stops the thin, sitar-like buzz a wide flat top produces.
- Fret end bevelling. The ends are rounded and worked back flush with the edge of the fretboard across the full guitar neck width, so nothing protrudes past the board to catch the side of your hand when you slide.
- Edge and surface finishing. The board edges are sanded smooth and the whole surface polished, so the neck reads as one continuous piece under the hand rather than a board with frets dropped into it.
- What it adds up to. A leveled, crowned and bevelled board is what makes a guitar neck feel fast instead of sticky, especially on a thin neck electric guitar: you can play with a lighter touch and a lower action because nothing is fighting the string.
Dual-Action Truss Rod
Of all the parts of a guitar neck, the truss rod is the one that decides whether a setup survives the trip. This neck uses a dual-action rod, which means the adjuster can pull against a forward bow and also push against a back bow. A single-action rod only fights string tension in one direction, so a neck that has gone the other way leaves you with nothing to adjust.
In practice you will touch it at three moments. When the maple guitar neck first arrives and settles into your climate. When you change string gauge or drop tuning and the pull on the neck changes. And when the seasons turn, if the guitar lives somewhere humid or dry. The adjuster is reached through the access slot at the rear of the heel, and a small turn goes a long way: a quarter turn, then re-check the relief around the eighth fret, let it settle, and check again.
The rod is not a substitute for fretwork. It changes the bow of the neck; it cannot fix a high fret or a badly cut nut slot. What it gives you is a neck you can keep in spec through years of string tension, which is the difference between a guitar that plays the same at every gig and one that visits the bench twice a year.
Fitting, Setup & Fret Dressing
- Measure before you unbolt anything. Take the electric guitar neck dimensions from the table above and check them against your body and your hardware: pocket width and depth, the scale the body was built around, and the tuner posts you plan to use. Two minutes with a rule saves a return.
- Test-fit the heel. The neck should drop into the pocket and sit flat with no rocking, and the guitar neck width at the heel should meet the pocket walls evenly. If it rocks, find out why before you drive a screw — a thin shim or a couple of strokes on the pocket wall is normal bench work; forcing the joint is not.
- Bolt on and bring it to pitch. Four screws into the neck plate, then string up with the gauge you actually intend to play. Judge nothing before it is at pitch, because the neck only takes its working shape under tension.
- Set relief, then action, then intonation. Truss rod first, checked around the eighth fret, then saddle height, then intonation. Working in that order means every adjustment is measured against a neck that is already where it should be.
- Plan for a light touch-up. Minor fret dressing or leveling may be necessary to compensate for environmental shifts during shipping or to meet a specific low-action requirement. That is normal for a wooden neck that has travelled, and it is usually a few passes with a fine file and a polish rather than a full re-level — worth budgeting for if you like the action very low.
Specifications
- A 12" radius. Flatter than the 9.5" board a vintage Tele carries, and the difference shows up under your fingers: the string has more room before it meets the next fret, so whole-step and step-and-a-half bends hold their pitch higher up the neck. - 22 frets. The full second octave sits on the board instead of stopping at the vintage 21, which puts the top of the range within reach for lead work rather than leaving you to bend for it. - Medium-jumbo wire. Tall enough to grip and bend against without feeling scalloped, with enough crown left for a future re-level. - Modern C profile. Among the common guitar neck shapes the C is the middle ground: full enough to fill the palm, shoulders eased so the thumb travels, and the same shape held up the neck instead of tapering into a hard D. - A gentle taper. The profile stays shallow between the first and twelfth fret rather than swelling into a club, so if you come from a thin neck electric guitar and expect a Tele to feel chunky, this one will not. - A familiar nut width. The guitar neck width at the nut is the standard Tele figure, so chord shapes and string spacing feel like home from the first chord. - If you want vintage feel instead. Our 9.5" radius, 21-fret plain maple Tele neck is the closer match; this one is the modern-geometry option.
| Specification | Detail |
|---|
| Frets | 22 medium-jumbo, rust-proof nickel silver |
| Neck and fretboard | Canadian maple |
| Fingerboard radius | 12" / 305 mm |
| Scale length | 25.5" / 648 mm |
| Nut width | 43 mm / 1.69", bone nut |
| Heel width | 56 mm / 2.2" |
| Heel depth | 26 mm / 1.0" |
| Peg hole diameter | 10 mm |
| Neck thickness at 1st fret | 21 mm / 0.82" |
| Neck thickness at 12th fret | 22 mm / 0.87" |
| Neck profile | Modern C |
| Truss rod | Dual action |
| Skunk stripe | Rosewood |
| Finish | Satin, vintage tint |
Ordering & Delivery
Every guitar neck we sell is available as a single piece — the minimum order is one — so a repair shop can order exactly the neck a job needs, and a player comparing guitar neck shapes can buy the same one a shop would. Orders ship worldwide. Transit is generally quoted at 2–15 days depending on destination, and we confirm the window for your address when the order is placed; any duty or import charge is set by your own customs authority rather than by us.
Custom work is quoted case by case, and we take custom orders only for larger quantities. Two checks are worth doing before you order: that your body's pocket matches the heel figures, and that your tuners are made for the peg hole size. If you are unsure, send us the electric guitar neck dimensions you are working to, or a photo of the pocket with a rule laid across it, and we will tell you plainly whether this is the right neck or whether another spec in the range suits you better.
Neck orders are packed for export transit. Open and inspect the box when it lands, and tell us straight away if anything is not right so we can put it right quickly.
Technical Support & Model Matching
Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step, including the parts of a guitar neck that usually need attention. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.
FAQ
Will this electric guitar neck fit my Tele-style body?
It is built to the standard Telecaster-compatible footprint, so on bodies with standard routing the heel and scale line up. Before ordering, compare three things against your own guitar: the pocket width and depth, the scale length the body was built around, and your tuner hole size. If the body is an unusual shape or a kit with its own routing, send us a photo of the pocket with a rule across it and we will tell you honestly whether it fits.
What does a 12" radius change compared with a vintage board?
A flatter board gives the string more clearance before it reaches the next fret, so bends hold their pitch higher up and you can run a lower action without choking. Chords still sit comfortably — 12" is a long way from a classical-flat board — but it feels less curved under the fingers than the vintage 9.5" guitar neck. If you mostly play open chords and want the older feel, our 9.5" radius, 21-fret version is the closer match.
What is the neck profile like in the hand?
Modern C, carried through the length. Among the common guitar neck shapes it is the middle ground: full enough to fill the palm, with the shoulders eased so the thumb can travel. The taper is gentle, so the neck does not swell into a club as you move past the twelfth fret.
How does an all-maple board sound next to rosewood?
Brighter and more immediate. A maple guitar neck pushes the attack and keeps notes separate, which suits clean Tele playing and stays defined under gain. A rosewood board rounds the top end off and adds warmth; if that is the sound in your head, our rosewood-board version uses the same maple back with a rosewood board.
Which tuners fit the peg holes?
The holes are sized for current sealed-gear tuners and most modern replacements. If you are fitting vintage-style tuners with smaller posts you will need conversion bushings, and if you are reusing an old set, measure the post diameter before you order rather than after.
Is the nut fitted, and will it need work?
Yes — a bone nut is seated on the neck. Slot depth is finalised at the first setup for the string gauge you actually play, so if you use a heavy set or want a very specific action, expect your tech to fine-tune the slots during that setup rather than leaving them untouched.
