Stratocaster Compatible Guitar Neck Rosewood Fretboard Maple Neck 9.5" Radius 8 mm Holes 21 Frets Satin Finish

Product Overview

This is a right-handed replacement electric guitar neck for Stratocaster-compatible builds: a hand-selected Canadian maple shaft, a rosewood fretboard, 21 medium-jumbo frets on a 9.5 in (240 mm) radius, 8 mm tuner holes and a dual-action truss rod, dressed in a vintage-tinted satin finish. People come to it for three reasons. A working guitar has a broken, twisted or worn-out neck and needs a playable replacement without rebuilding the whole instrument. A build wants the warmth of a rosewood board set against the brightness of maple. Or a player simply wants a different look and feel on a guitar they already like, and is comparing guitar neck shapes to find the right one. Because the neck arrives fretted, inlaid and fitted with a bone nut, the work stays on the bench instead of turning into a full build. It is also not a fitment guarantee: measure your neck pocket and your bridge position before you commit, then check the guitar neck width at the heel against the pocket and read the dimensions through before ordering.

Fretwork & Build Quality

1. Wood selection — Every maple guitar neck begins as hand-selected, A-grade Canadian maple, chosen for straight grain and for how it will hold a fret plane once string tension arrives.
2. Fret seating and leveling — Frets are pressed into the board at precise increments set by the scale length, then checked against one another so the whole playing surface sits level rather than in steps.
3. Crowning — The tops are hand polished and beveled into their final rounded shape, so each string leaves a fret on a clean crown instead of a flat, buzzing plateau.
4. Fret end beveling — The ends are rounded and worked back into line with the edge of the board, so nothing sticks out to catch a player's hand during a slide up the neck.
5. Edge and surface finishing — The fretboard edges are smoothed so there is no scratchy shoulder under the thumb, and the frets are polished so bends move freely instead of dragging.
6. Why it matters — The parts of a guitar neck your hand meets most — fret tops, fret ends, board edges — are exactly the ones that get the attention here. The result is a neck that plays fast and stays comfortable through a long set.
7. Wood is a moving material, and a neck that leaves the bench straight can shift slightly on its way to you as it settles into a new climate. That is why we say up front that minor fret dressing or leveling may be necessary — to compensate for environmental shifts during shipping, or to meet a specific low-action requirement you are setting for the guitar. It is a normal part of fitting a wooden instrument part, not a fault in the neck. On arrival, sight down the board for relief, run a straightedge across the frets in a few places, and look along both edges of the board for a fret end that has lifted in transit. Check the electric guitar neck dimensions against your pocket before any screws go in. If you are chasing an unusually low action, or building to specific electric guitar neck dimensions, have your technician check the fret plane first — a few minutes on the bench now saves a re-setup later.
8. Rosewood is the warm half of this pairing. The board is left unfinished, which is why it feels so smooth under the fingers, and it takes some of the excess high frequency off the higher registers — useful on a bright amp, a bright pedal or a guitar that already cuts hard. Players tend to describe the result as rich and full rather than dark. The maple guitar neck supplies the other side: brightness, snap and a clean, tight low end, with grain that shows through the satin. Put the two together and the tone comes out rounded — the maple keeps the attack quick while the rosewood guitar neck board mellows the top end, so open chords stay airy and single notes keep their edge. Practically, that makes it a forgiving neck to match to an existing rig. If your guitar currently sounds thin and spiky, the rosewood board softens the top; if it already sounds dark and covered, pair it with a pickup set that has some bite rather than fighting the wood.

Fit & Compatibility

• Heel fit — The heel is 2.2 in (56 mm) wide and 1.0 in (26 mm) deep, the standard Strat-style pocket. Measure your pocket with calipers rather than judging it by eye; a millimetre of slop shows up as a neck that never sits straight.
• Scale and bridge position — The electric guitar neck length is fixed by the 25.5 in (648 mm) scale, so it only intonates on a body drilled and routed for that scale. Measure from the nut position to the saddles before you buy.
• Guitar neck width at both ends — 1.69 in (43 mm) at the nut and 2.2 in (56 mm) at the heel. The nut width decides how the first position feels under your hand; the heel width decides whether the neck physically drops in.
• Tuner holes — Pre-drilled at 8 mm, which suits vintage-style 6R machine heads with 8 mm collars. Modern 10 mm locking tuners need the holes opened up first, which is a job for a technician.
• Fret count — 21 frets. On a pickguard or body laid out for a 22-fret board, check where the last fret and the neck pickup sit before you commit.
• Profile and radius — A modern C carve behind a 9.5 in radius board: one of the guitar neck shapes most Strat players already have muscle memory for.
• Handedness — Right-handed. Left-handed players need the left-handed version of this neck; the two are not interchangeable.
• Compatibility, not brand lineage — This is a Stratocaster-compatible replacement, not an official Fender part, so match it on the electric guitar neck dimensions rather than on a logo.

Specifications

Finish & Hardware Details

• Vintage-tinted satin finish — The back of the maple guitar neck carries a satin finish with a warm vintage tint. It does not grab the hand the way a gloss neck can during a humid gig, and it keeps the neck looking broken-in rather than brand new. - Rosewood skunk stripe — A rosewood stripe runs up the back of the neck over the truss rod channel, matching the fretboard and breaking up the maple. - White dot inlays — Simple white dots along the board, the classic look that suits a vintage-tinted neck. - Bone nut fitted — The neck arrives with a bone nut already in place and slotted, so you are setting action rather than cutting a nut from a blank. - The parts of a guitar neck you actually look at — Inlays, nut, skunk stripe and fret ends are the details that decide whether a replacement neck looks intentional or obviously swapped in; here they follow the vintage brief.

Truss Rod & First Setup

1. String it up before you judge anything — An electric guitar neck only shows its true curve under tension. Fit it, tune to pitch and let it stand for a while before you measure relief.
2. Read the relief — Capo the first fret, hold the low E down where the neck meets the body, and look at the gap around the seventh and eighth frets. A small, even gap is normal; a wide one means too much relief.
3. Know what dual action gives you — The rod works in both directions, so it corrects a concave bow, where the middle of the neck dips away from the strings, and a convex bow, where it rises toward them. A single-action rod only pulls one way.
4. Adjust in small steps — Turn a little, re-tune, re-measure, and give the wood time to follow. Big swings on a new neck are how people talk themselves into a problem that was not there.
5. Set action and intonation afterwards — Saddle height and intonation come after relief, never before. Changing relief moves the string height, so the order really does matter.

Care & Maintenance

Wipe the maple guitar neck back with a soft dry cloth after playing. Skip solvent-based polishes on the satin — they can leave a shine patch that never quite blends back in — and keep the headstock and heel away from direct heat.

The rosewood guitar neck board is unfinished, so treat it gently. A dry cloth after each session clears sweat and dust; if the board ever looks pale and dry, a light coat of fretboard oil worked in and buffed off is all it needs. More oil is not better — a soaked board feels sticky and collects dirt.

Store and travel with the neck supported behind the headstock, and keep the instrument away from radiators, hot cars and draughty windows. Wood moves with humidity, so if the relief shifts with the seasons, a small truss rod adjustment is the normal answer rather than a new neck.

If a fret buzzes in one spot only, or a bend chokes out on the upper frets, have a technician look at the fret plane before touching the rod — those symptoms usually point at the frets.

Ordering & Delivery

• Minimum order: 1 piece. A single neck is enough for a repair, so a one-man repair bench and an individual player order exactly the same way. - Packing. Necks are boxed with the fretboard protected and the heel braced for transit. If you need retail-ready packaging, or several necks in one carton, tell us when you order. - Lead time and dispatch. Confirm current lead time and the dispatch point with us when you place the order — it depends on what else is on the same shipment. - Payment and dealer terms. Ask us about payment methods and terms for shops that order regularly, and we will confirm what applies to your order. - Ordering tuners at the same time. If you are also replacing machine heads or strings, say so and we will keep everything on one order so the parts arrive together.

Technical Support & Model Matching

Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.

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