Product Overview
The finish is satin rather than gloss, which keeps the back of the neck dry and quick under your hand instead of grabbing once you warm up. It is the neck we build for the everyday jobs — a worn or broken neck on a customer's guitar, a partscaster that finally needs a proper starting point, or a first build where the numbers have to be predictable. The scale length is the first of the electric guitar neck dimensions to check: it has to match the body you are fitting, which covers most Stratocaster-style repairs and replacements. Nothing here is exotic, and that is deliberate: this is the neck to measure the rest of a build against.
Fretwork & Playability
- Leveling. Frets are pressed in at increments set by the electric guitar neck length, then worked until every crown sits on the same plane. Level frets are what stop a string from choking out when you bend.
- Crowning. The tops are hand-polished and bevelled into their final rounded shape, so the string meets a clean crown rather than a flattened plateau.
- Fret end beveling. The ends are rounded and filed back flush with the edge of the board, so nothing protrudes to catch the side of your hand as you move up the neck.
- A profile most hands already know. The maple guitar neck is shaped to a Modern C: enough shoulder to fill your palm, not so much that it feels like a bat.
- The small parts get the most hand work. The nut, the inlays and the fret ends are the parts of a guitar neck you touch every time you play, so that is where the finishing time goes — a bone nut seated square, dots sitting flush, ends smooth under a slide up the board.
- The result. Level, polished, bevelled frets on a comfortable profile give you a neck that feels played-in from the first string change and stays quick through a long set.
Maple Neck, Rosewood Fretboard
- Brightness from the core. A maple guitar neck is chosen for stiffness and a clear, bright attack: notes stay defined under gain, and the shaft holds its shape under string tension. - Warmth from the board. Rosewood is the classic partner for maple because it takes the edge off the top end. Players shopping for a rosewood guitar neck usually want the higher registers to sit back a little while the mids fill out. - Left unfinished on purpose. Rosewood does not need a finish, so it feels smooth and slightly open under the fingers from the first day, and the board darkens naturally where you play most. - A rounded voice, not a scooped one. Maple gives the snap, rosewood mellows it, and the result sits well for clean chords, blues leads and heavier rhythm without one frequency range taking over. - Grain you can read. Straight, even grain on the maple shaft and a close-pored rosewood board are the visual signs of wood that was selected rather than simply cut.
Fitment & Installation
- Measure the pocket, not the photo. Compare the heel width and depth of the neck you are replacing with the heel on this one; a pocket a millimetre tight or loose shows up later as a gap or a twisted neck.
- Nut width is feel. Compare the nut width with the guitar you already play; if you normally use a much wider or narrower board, you will notice it in the first position.
- Check your tuners against the holes. The headstock is drilled for modern electric guitar tuners, so measure the bushing or collar on your machines before anything gets pressed in.
- Radius changes how it bends. This board's radius is flatter than the vintage 7.25-inch boards, which makes whole-step bends easier to hold and keeps the action even across all six strings.
- The truss rod works both ways. It is dual action: one direction corrects a concave bow, the other corrects a convex hump, which a single-action rod cannot do. Quarter turns, then re-check the relief.
- Dry-fit before you drill. Set the neck into the pocket without screws and sight down both sides; if the heel will not sit flat, stop and check the pocket instead of pulling it down with the screws.
- Write it down before you buy. Put the electric guitar neck dimensions from your old neck beside the ones for this model — heel, nut, thickness behind the first fret — and the answer is usually obvious in a minute.
- Compatible describes a set of dimensions, not a brand relationship. This electric guitar neck is built to the Stratocaster pattern — the familiar bolt-on heel, the usual nut width for that pattern and tuner holes sized for modern machines — so bodies and hardware made to that pattern go together with it. It is not a licensed or officially branded replacement, and no original maker's name appears on the headstock. That is the normal position of a replacement part sold outside a guitar company's own parts channel, and knowing it before you buy removes most of the worry. What "compatible" does cover. The numbers that decide whether a neck works: scale length, heel width and depth, nut width, peg hole diameter and fret count. Those are the figures to check against your body and your electric guitar tuners, and they are the reason this neck fits a Stratocaster-style pocket without reworking it. What it does not cover. A logo, the original maker's warranty, or a promise that the neck arrives set up to the lowest action a player might ask for. No replacement neck is truly drop-in in that sense — the truss rod, nut slots and action are always adjusted to the individual guitar, and a light fret pass may be needed after shipping. What to tell a customer. If someone owns a collectible instrument and wants it to stay entirely original, an aftermarket part changes that and they should hear it from you before the work starts. If they simply want a player's guitar back in service, a compatible neck made to the correct dimensions gives them the same feel and tuning stability at a much lower cost, which is part of why we build in our own workshop rather than buying in finished parts. If you need an official part. Then this is not it, and we would rather say so than sell you something that is not. Send us the guitar neck width and heel measurements from the body you are fitting, plus your tuner bushing size, and we will confirm whether this model matches what you already have.
Specifications
| Specification | Detail |
|---|
| Neck wood | Canadian maple, hand-selected A grade |
| Fretboard | Rosewood |
| Scale length (electric guitar neck length) | 25.5 in / 648 mm |
| Fretboard radius | 12 in / 305 mm |
| Frets | 22 medium-jumbo, rust-proof nickel silver |
| Nut width | 1.69 in / 43 mm |
| Heel width | 2.2 in / 56 mm |
| Heel depth | 1.0 in / 26 mm |
| Peg hole diameter (for modern electric guitar tuners) | 10 mm |
| Neck thickness | 0.82 in / 21 mm at the 1st fret; 0.87 in / 22 mm at the 12th |
| Truss rod | Dual action |
| Skunk stripe | Rosewood |
| Colour and finish | Vintage tint, satin |
Setup Note After Shipping
Wood moves. A rosewood guitar neck that has spent a week in a cargo hold or a delivery van will have taken on some of the humidity it travelled through, and that can show up as a small change in relief or a fret that sat a little high when it left us.
So treat the neck as a starting point rather than a finished setup: minor fret dressing or leveling may be necessary to compensate for environmental shifts during shipping, or to meet a specific low-action requirement. On most necks it is not needed at all — but if you or your customer wants the strings almost on the frets, plan for a light pass with a leveling beam. Give it a day or two at room temperature, set the truss rod to neutral, then check the parts of a guitar neck that shift first — relief and fret level — before you judge it. If anything on the electric guitar neck looks wrong out of the box, photograph it and get in touch before you start work.
Rosewood Fretboard & Neck Care
- Wipe it down before it goes back in the case. Sweat and skin oil settle into the open pores of an unfinished board, so a dry, lint-free cloth across the fretboard and up the back of the neck after playing does most of the work. Wash the cloth, not the guitar.
- Clean along the fret line, not the whole board. Grey build-up collects against the wire. A soft cloth with a fingertip of fretboard cleaner, worked along each fret with a plastic scraper, lifts it without touching the wood — keep metal blades and household spray polish away from the rosewood.
- Oil is a correction, not a routine. A rosewood guitar neck only wants a thin coat when the board looks pale and dry. If it feels tacky or holds dust, there is too much on it: buff the excess back and leave it alone for several months.
- Watch the air around it. A very dry room shrinks the board and the fret ends start to feel sharp along the edge — that is the wood moving, not the fretwork failing. Roughly 40% to 60% relative humidity, or a case humidifier through winter, keeps it where it was when it left us.
- Store it supported. In a case or gig bag, or flat and padded on the bench — never standing on its heel or leaning headstock-first against a wall. A neck that lives in a hot car or an unheated garage will need a truss rod adjustment before it plays right again.
- Adjust in small steps. The dual-action rod answers seasonal movement: a quarter turn at a time, then let the maple guitar neck settle for a day before you measure relief again. Chasing a buzz with a hard tighten is how rods and threads get damaged.
- Expect the board to darken. Rosewood deepens where your fingers work and stays lighter where they do not, and the satin back takes on a soft sheen in the first positions. Both are normal ageing rather than wear, and neither needs correcting.
- Take the tension off for long storage. If the neck is off the guitar or boxed for months, slacken the strings and back the truss rod to neutral, then keep it somewhere the temperature does not swing. Store it flat rather than hanging by the headstock.
Ordering & Delivery
- Start with the fit. Send us the guitar neck width and heel measurements from your body, or a photo of the pocket with a ruler across it, and we will tell you whether this neck is the right one before you commit.
- One piece is the minimum. We sell from a single neck, so a repair, a sample or a one-off build is a normal order — there is no carton to fill.
- Ask about delivery when you order. Shipping service, cost and delivery time depend on destination and on stock, so we confirm them with you when the order is placed rather than leaving it open.
- Tell us what it is for. Tuners, packing, a shop restock or a single repair — say so in the order notes and we will go through the details with you before dispatch. Every neck is built in our own workshop, so the people who made it are the ones answering your questions.
Technical Support & Model Matching
Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.
FAQ
Is this an official replacement neck, or a compatible part?
It is a compatible part. We build this electric guitar neck to the standard Stratocaster pattern — same scale, same heel footprint, same tuner hole size — but it is our own neck, not a licensed or brand-stamped one. That is why the measurements matter more than the logo: if the pocket and the scale agree, it fits and plays the way you expect.
How does the 43 mm nut width feel compared with a wider board?
The guitar neck width at the nut is the familiar modern size: comfortable for open chords, easy to wrap a thumb over the low E, and it leaves a little more room for bending than a vintage narrow board. If you normally play a 1.75-inch nut, this will feel slightly more compact in the first position.
How do I check it against the neck I am replacing?
Take the electric guitar neck dimensions off the old neck with calipers where you can: heel width and depth, nut width, and thickness behind the first fret. The heel decides whether it bolts up; the rest decides how it feels. If you want a second opinion, send a photo with a ruler lying across the pocket.
Does the rosewood fretboard need oiling?
Rosewood is left unfinished, so a light fretboard oil once or twice a year keeps it from drying out in a centrally heated room. Wipe on a thin coat, leave it a couple of minutes, then buff off anything the wood has not taken — a soaked board attracts dirt and feels tacky. A rosewood guitar neck that is played regularly usually needs less attention than one that lives in a case.
Will the satin finish stay matte?
Satin burnishes where your hand works most, so the back of the neck gradually takes on a soft sheen in the first few positions. That is normal ageing, not wear, and it will not flake or go patchy the way a thick gloss coat can. A maple guitar neck finished in satin is also easy to keep clean — a dry cloth is usually all it needs.
What is already fitted, and what do I need to add?
The parts of a guitar neck that need real work are done: frets pressed, levelled, crowned and polished, dot inlays seated, the skunk stripe fitted, and the bone nut in place. You add the tuners, string tree and strings. Check the nut slots against your string gauge during setup — a nut cut for one gauge may need a light file for another.
Which tuners fit the headstock?
The holes are sized for most modern electric guitar tuners with matching bushings or collars. Vintage-style press-fit bushes and some locking models vary, so measure the part that passes through the hole before pressing anything in. If it is tight, do not force it — a very light ream is safer than a cracked headstock.
Can it go on a shorter-scale body?
No. The electric guitar neck length is fixed at 25.5 inches, so it belongs on a body built to that scale. On a shorter-scale body the bridge sits in the wrong place and the saddles run out of travel long before the guitar intonates. If you are building something shorter, you need a neck made for that scale.