24.75" Scale Length Telecaster Compatible Guitar Neck Roasted Maple Neck 12" Radius 10 mm Holes 22 Frets Satin Finish

Product Overview

This is a complete electric guitar neck built for instruments that already run a 24.75-inch scale. That makes it a natural choice for a repair bench replacing a tired neck on a short-scale Tele-style instrument, for a builder assembling a 24.75-inch body, or for a player who simply prefers a shorter scale and the feel of a thin neck electric guitar. One thing worth settling first: this neck is made for 24.75-inch bodies, so measure the instrument you plan to fit it to rather than assuming it will drop in. The satin finish enhances playing comfort while preserving the wood's natural look.

Roasted Maple & Build Quality

• Hand-selected A-grade Canadian maple. Blanks are chosen for straight grain before cutting, which is what gives the finished neck a clean, even surface and a predictable response under the hand. - Roasted, not simply kiln-dried. Heat treatment drives moisture out of the wood and leaves the maple darker, drier and slower to react to humidity swings — a real advantage on a neck that lives in a gig bag or a workshop. - Roasted maple fretboard as well. The board matches the back instead of being capped in a different species, so the maple guitar neck responds as one piece of wood rather than two glued characters. - Rosewood accents where they help. A rosewood skunk stripe runs down the back and a rosewood insert sits at the headstock, adding two small warm notes to an otherwise bright neck. - Satin finish, vintage tint. A thin satin coat keeps the wood looking like wood and does not build up under the hand the way a heavy gloss can. - Bone nut. The nut seat is cut so the guitar neck width at the nut lands on the familiar 43 mm for this body pattern, keeping string spacing where players expect to find it.

Fretwork & Fret Ends

• Leveling. Frets are pressed in at spacing set by the scale length, then checked against each other and leveled as a set until they sit in one plane. That is what removes the high spots and the buzzing they cause.
• Crowning. Once level, the top of each fret is reshaped and polished back into a clean crown, so the string contacts the centre of the fret rather than a flattened plateau.
• Fret-end beveling. The ends are rounded and brought flush with the edge of the board. Nothing protrudes, so nothing catches the side of your hand during a slide.
• Edge and board finishing. The fretboard edges are smoothed in the same pass — no scratchy line where your thumb rides up the neck.
• Polishing before assembly. Frets are hand-polished at the end of the process, which is why bends feel slick rather than gritty on the very first play.
• What it buys you at the bench. Clean fretwork is what makes a low action possible without fret-out, and it is the difference between a neck that plays straight away and one that needs a morning of someone's time.
• Frets are where your fingers live. Of all the parts of an electric guitar neck, the frets are the ones you feel on every single note, which is why this is the stage we refuse to rush.

Truss Rod, Setup & Care

A dual-action rod, reached from the heel

A dual-action truss rod spans the electric guitar neck length and is adjusted through the slot at the heel. Unlike a single-action rod, it corrects bow in both directions: turn one way to straighten a forward bow, the other way to take out a back bow. That matters more than it sounds, because the parts of a guitar neck you cannot see — the rod and its channel — decide whether the neck stays playable once the humidity changes. Setting it up the first time

String the guitar to pitch, let it sit for a day or two so the neck settles, then set relief before you touch saddle or nut height. Quarter turns are enough at each step, with a few minutes between them for the wood to respond. Once the relief is right, set action and intonation in the usual order. Shipping, seasons and the small print

Roasted maple is more stable than green wood, but no neck shrugs off a week in a cold cargo hold or a dry room in winter. Minor fret dressing or leveling may be necessary to compensate for environmental shifts during shipping, or to reach a very low action a particular player wants. That is normal behaviour for a wooden instrument part rather than a fault. Keep the guitar out of hot cars and away from radiators, and re-check relief when the seasons change.

Fit, Scale & Compatibility

1. Confirm the scale length first. Measure from the face of the nut to the centre of the 12th fret and double it. The result must match the scale length this neck is built for; if it does not, the neck will not intonate. That one number is the whole electric guitar neck length question, and nothing else matters until it is settled.
2. Measure the heel against the pocket. The heel width and depth are given in the specifications. A pocket that matches those figures will take the neck cleanly without shimming.
3. Check the nut width. This is a standard guitar neck width for Telecaster-pattern bodies. If your bridge and pickguard were laid out for a noticeably wider or narrower nut, the strings will sit off-centre.
4. Check the tuner holes. The peg hole size suits modern sealed-gear tuners. Vintage-style press-fit bushings usually need conversion bushings, so add a set to the order if that is what you are fitting.
5. Look at the guitar body shape and the bridge. This is not a conversion neck, so the saddles have to sit where the scale length puts them. On a body drilled for a longer scale there is simply not enough saddle travel to intonate.
6. Compare it with the neck you are removing. Nut width, heel width, heel depth and peg holes against the old part tell you more in two minutes than any description of electric guitar neck shapes can.
7. Ask before ordering if a number is close. Pocket depth and heel width are the usual reasons a neck "almost" fits, and they are worth a second opinion before you commit.

Neck Profile & Feel

• Modern C profile. Not a hard V and not a shallow D — a rounded C that sits in the palm the way Telecaster players expect. It is the middle ground among electric guitar neck shapes, which is exactly why it suits so many hands. - A comfortable taper from first fret to 12th. The taper reads as a thin neck electric guitar without tipping into a flat, shred-only profile. Chords stay comfortable and upper-position lead work stays quick. - A flatter radius. Flatter than the vintage curve, so bending does not choke out, but round enough that barre chords still feel natural under the fingers. - Medium-jumbo fret wire. Tall enough to grab a bend and hold it, low enough that heavy chording stays clean and in tune. - Dark dot markers and a smooth board. Simple dot inlays keep the vintage look, and the smoothed edges keep the thumb comfortable through a long set. - A neck that gets out of the way. The point of this profile is that you stop noticing it — nothing about it fights a chord, a bend or a capo.

Tone Character

Bright wood, softened at the edges

A maple guitar neck is usually the bright, immediate choice, and roasting pushes that further: the wood dries out, the attack gets quicker and the low end tightens up. Played clean, this neck gives you the snap and twang a Telecaster is bought for. Under gain, that same dryness keeps chords from turning to mush when you dig in.

Where the warmth comes from

The rosewood skunk stripe and headstock insert are small pieces, but they are the warm notes in an otherwise bright recipe. Expect the very top to be slightly rounded rather than glassy, which is usually what players mean when they call a neck balanced.

What the shorter scale does to the voice

A 24.75-inch scale puts less tension on the same set of strings, and less tension means a rounder, slightly fatter fundamental. Compared with a 25.5-inch neck, single notes bloom a little more and bends sing with less effort. The result is a neck that handles country picking, blues and straight rock without asking for a different guitar for each.

Specifications

Ordering & Delivery

• One piece minimum. You can order a single neck for a repair or a one-off build; there is no need to buy a batch to get started.
• Dispatch depends on the item. Orders go out from our workshop in Guangdong or from our Texas warehouse depending on stock, and we confirm which one applies when your order is placed.
• Delivery estimates. Typical delivery is quoted at 2-15 days depending on destination — ask us for the current estimate for your address before you promise a date to your own customer.
• Tell us what you are fitting it to. If you want a second opinion before buying, send the guitar body shape and the scale length you are working to, and we will check them against the neck dimensions.
• Packing and forwarding. If the neck is being sent on to a customer or into a spray shop, tell us before dispatch so we can confirm how it will be packed.
• Combining parts. Necks, bodies, tuners and hardware can travel together; if you are building a complete instrument, say so when you order and we will keep the parts matched.
• Building in batches. Shops and small workshops ordering several necks can ask about quantities and terms for a larger run.

Technical Support & Model Matching

Not sure whether a part will work with what you already have? Tell us what you are building or repairing, or send a few photos and measurements, and our team will help you confirm the match before you order. If something looks off after delivery, get in touch with pictures and details and we will help you find the cause and put it right. We can also walk you through fitting and first setup, step by step. Behind that is more than ten years of working experience, 100% quality control, and customer service that answers around the clock.

FAQ